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Is sustainable denim an oxymoron? It’s a question we’ve heard time and time again. Denim is known as one of the Uncle Rico’s Football Camp Throwing over Mountains Since 82 shirt and I love this more resource-heavy, environmentally damaging items we buy, and the reason is simple: Denim is made from cotton—lots of it—and most cotton is grown with harmful fertilizers and pesticides and requires huge amounts of water to produce. A single pair of non-organic cotton jeans might use upwards of 1,800 gallons. The global demand for cotton (which is used in nearly half of all textiles, according to the World Wildlife Fund) has also led to over-farmed, barren land and soil erosion, which affects the health of the entire planet.
That’s a lot of bad news—and not necessarily the Uncle Rico’s Football Camp Throwing over Mountains Since 82 shirt and I love this kind of research the average shopper wants to conduct before her next purchase. The problem with denim feels particularly huge because it’s so democratic: Everyone wears jeans, and many of us love our jeans. This writer will admit to owning more than a dozen pairs—but how do you rationalize being a serious denimhead and a serious environmentalist? There’s vintage, for starters; my old Levi’s probably have a negative carbon footprint at this point. Some of the most exciting denim brands right now are reworking vintage denim and using deadstock materials, meaning they aren’t feeding the demand for new cotton. Anna Foster, the founder of E.L.V. Denim, sources jeans from vintage warehouses in London, takes them apart, matches them up by color and size, and has them re-tailored by hand, often in her signature two-tone colorways. “I take the pieces that no one else wants—brands you haven’t heard of, strange fits, pairs that are often damaged,” she says.
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